To the Inland Seas

I'm officially out of the New York mountains and slogging it out across the upper state. I spent last night on the shores of Lake Ontario, the last ocean I'll see until the Pacific--amazing.

I awoke in Boonville in a camp tucked into the far reaches of a fair grounds. Up half the night doing battle (not!) with a skunk, I struggle out of my tent into a dim morning, the sky hanging like a vast beef steak gone bad, an immense grey slab of meat hanging low over the earth. Not inspiring. But it was cool and not raining--yet--so good enough for cycling.

I'm a constant source of interest wherever I go. I end up answering the same questions a lot (where from, how far, did you make that...?), but this offers me a way to open conversations and meet folks, so I have to be patient. The people continue to amaze me with their generosity and kindness. I expect that experience to be one of the greatest legacies of the tour for me. What a great bunch of people we have in this country.

I crossed the 700 mile mark officially this morning. My body has mostly adapted to the demands of the tour. The various bits and pieces may complain a little, but they know their work: a 4 to 7 hour spinning class every day.

Soon I'll be on the canal path, about 90 miles of car-free bliss and then Niagra Falls. I wonder if anyone has ever ridden a German recumbent over the falls?